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Interim

I have a like-dislike relation with Interim. Sometimes I feel like the space is too nice and the prices are too high for food that’s often boring. Other times I have dreams about that one grilled pork-chop that took me for a ride for dinner. The kitchen at Interim has also had its back and forth. Chef Jackson Kramer left for a period and now has returned. I recently had dinner in the private room, and I must give Chef Kramer serious credit for making it all look very easy. A table of 16-17 isn’t a simple cover, but the timing was as if we were a party of 4 and this was just another table. As for the food: wonderful.

Crispy Chicken Livers, pickled wild ramps, rhubarb marmalade – $10
At first bite the chicken livers were too greasy, the liver unpronounced, but eventually everything came together and the liver was as good as I’ve had.

Berkshire Pork Tenderloin, warm turnip salad, cured jowl, arugula, green sauce – $29
Entree of pork tenderloin looked boring. Looked is the key word. Perhaps it was two notches overcooked but the combination of pork with the sauteed greens, spicy green sauce and salty/fatty jowl was fantastic.

espresso creme brulee – $7
You have ever right to judge me for ordering the creme brulee, the staple dessert for “fancy” restaurants but always boring. But listen here — this creme brulee was excellent because it was different. The menu reads “espresso” but my friends and I tasted more blueberry and wine somewhere in there. Either way, very much worth the $7.

Warm Chocolate Cake, mixed berry coulis & vanilla gelato – $8.5
The warm chocolate cake was more like an upside-down souffle. Rich, dense chocolate: how can you not be happy?

Brioche Bread Pudding, bourbon crème anglaise, brown sugar pecans, salty caramel gelato — 8.5
A little bit on the dry side and very much lacking in bourbon, but still a nice dessert.

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I’ve been to Interim several times since my first review: twice for lunch and three times for dinner. I’ve noticed that Interim isn’t too keen when it comes to sauces with fish, but thankfully their fish is so fresh that I can just eat the fish by itself. Overall though, Interim has been one of the most consistent restaurants I’ve been to, Houston’s being the most consistent in the city. I think it all has to do with Chef Kramer’s devotion to staying in the kitchen, as he should.

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Once in a blue moon, I come across a great up-scale restaurant that’s not in downtown Memphis. Too many times have east Memphis restaurants such as Erling Jensens and Flemings deceived me with their so-called “reputation” and chic atmosphere. At the end of these meals, I find myself going home with an unsatisfied stomach and an emaciated wallet. With the hopes of breaking this bad streak, I decided to give Interim a chance. Across from the Racquet Club and Lucchesi’s, Interim is pretty much located in the heart of east Memphis. Before Interim opened up, the place was Wally Joe’s. Unfortunately, this high-end restaurant didn’t attract enough customers and was forced to close. As for Interim though, this place should be around for a while.

From the moment I walked into Interim, I was impressed. The restaurant had this attractive, modern look to it. As I entered the dining room, I was confronted by a mesmerizing sight: the kitchen. From any table, you can see the open kitchen in all its glory as it’s completely decked out with stainless-steel Viking equipment valued at two-million dollars. Within minutes of being seated, I was greeted by my waiter. Satisfied with water, I asked only for some lemons and a straw, two things which she forgot at first but eventually brought. For starters I ordered gazpacho. I had been having bad luck with cold soups and was hunting for a good one. Having never tried gazpacho, I was curious as to the taste of it. The gazpacho was basically a tomato-based puree with crème fraiche and avocado oil. Despite there being a bit too much crème, the soup was quite good! It was spicy, slightly sweet, and full of different flavors and twists. I occasionally dipped some French bread into the soup. The bread was okay since the first batch was warm and crunchy, while the next batch was cold and less satisfying. For my entrée, I ordered the bone-in pork chop served with garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed spinach with grape tomatoes all accompanied by a vinaigrette similar to Italian dressing. The pork chop was the best pork chop I have ever eaten! It was seared perfectly and was very tender. Most pork chops are either too salty or too dry, but this chop wasn’t over salted, and every bite was tender. The mashed potatoes went along well with the pork chop and had just the right amount of cream, butter, and salt. The spinach was sautéed very well and carried a clean and light taste, a nice contrast from the filling meat. The vinaigrette for the entire dish wasn’t overpowering either, as it added an appropriate acidic element to the dish. The soup cost $6 while the pork chop cost $28. The portions were large so I didn’t go home hungry. I also noticed that half the people in the restaurant ordered the “Interim Burger.” My two friends ordered it that night and said it was the best burger they had ever eaten.

To sum it all up, Interim is a breath of fresh air for east Memphis. Beautiful interior, good service, excellent food- Interim is a place that you just can’t ignore.

-Reviewed December of ’07


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