I’ve decided to give Wonderful World another half star in light of my experiences there these past five months.
Ronald McDonald may have sold over one billion burgers and the King may shape his chicken tenders to look like dinosaurs but neither comes close to being as awesome as Wonderful World Burger and More in the Emory Village.
From a culinary point of view, burgers are not inherently difficult to make. For hundreds of years the definition of a burger has revolved around meat between two pieces of bread, and yet in an age of electric cars and toilets that flush themselves, so many restaurants go awry with this American classic. Often the patty is more boiled than grilled and toppings overpower rather than complement.
Thankfully, Steven Chan’s Wonderful World makes none of these mistakes. In his world, bigger is not better, and the focus is on the details. The restaurant features slider-size burgers with fries, all of which is homemade. The bread is homemade, the meat is hand-patted, the fries are made with Yukon potatoes and the onion-rings are tempura-battered.
“I just want this place to be a very simple neighborhood restaurant where people can enjoy inexpensive food,” Chan said. Inexpensive indeed since you can get out of this gem of a place for less than ten dollars.
Simplicity is the name of the game, and although the menu is relatively small, each dish pulls its own weight and is as good and in fact far better than what a burger less than four dollars should be.
Take the Wonderful World Burger for example. The centerpiece of Chan’s signature burger is a patty that’s seared far better than most. The process doesn’t stop there. Chan makes own bread, which he astutely grills, and then uses a savory house sauce. Top it all with a slice of melted American cheese, Romaine lettuce and a b&b pickle and you’ve got yourself a simple yet perfect nod to America’s most sacred culinary tradition.
As I write this piece I realize it may come off more as an advertisement than a review, but it’s because I’ve had the chance to eat at this place for the last five months. In the genesis chapter of a restaurant, the kitchen generally starts off on the right foot but as the energy and hype of opening dies down, it starts to wobble.Should complacency or even laziness set in, the restaurant suddenly finds itself having a revelation that everything has gone to hell. It’s been five months though and Wonderful World continues to perform at a high level.
Beyond the Wonderful Burger, Chan’s teri-mayo hot dog and veggie burger are good enough to warrant their own place. The teri-mayo hot dog, again the bun and hot-dog are grilled, is topped with crunchy seaweed and a savory teriyaki-mayonnaise sauce. If hot dogs have ever bored you, look to the teri-mayo dog for a reawakening.
For those looking for a healthier alternative, the veggie burger is hands down the best veggie burger I’ve had. The patty, made from mushrooms, carrots, taro roots, green beans, onions and sesame seeds comes together seamlessly for a bite that’s very well put together.
The seemingly simplistic approach Chan takes to his food also plays out in the décor which can best be described as “country minimalism.” Dangling light bulbs, wood paneling from top to bottom and high ceilings are attractive and clean.
I could go on about the crispy fries, the sweet onion rings or the tex-mex burger that taste oh-so tex-mex, but hopefully by now it’s clear where your next meal should be. In fact, I think I’ll head over there now.
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