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Leon’s Full Service

bone marrow, olive tapenade, orange citrus

I try to live by the rule that if I don’t like something, it’s because I haven’t had it prepared properly. Or maybe the chef didn’t know what he or she was doing. Anchovies is on my list of current dislikes. Bone marrow is also on there. The first time I had marrow was at Holeman and Finch, and for whatever reason, only the raw parsley kept my gagging reflex at bay (and yet the veal testicles were delightful!). At Leon’s Full Service (owned by the Brickstore people), I figured I might as well give marrow another go.

Thankfully, there was no gagging. But there was also hardly any flavor. Olive tapenade and orange dominated everything. In the meantime, I was sipping on a fantastic montelpuciano barbanera, montepulciano d’abruzzo. For $7 a glass, it’s a great bargain, even if it rings in as the cheapest red on the menu. 

burger | warm chickpea & cherry salad, basil, aged provolone, red wine vinaigrette

The burger was strictly middle-of-the-road, but my oh my those chickpeas. Since when have chickpeas ever tasted this sexy? One doesn’t think to combine cherries with chickpeas for a savory side but when gooey aged provolone and basil start to mesh with everybody, it’s game over. I’ll be figuring out this recipe soon enough because it’s the kind of dish that could turn a carnivore into a vegetarian.

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It’s been a while since I’ve reviewed a restaurant that doesn’t take reservations, but tonight I did and it was well worth it. Beyond its reservation policy, Leon’s Full Service in Decatur operates as a relaxed “everyday” kind of place where patrons can often find creative American-influenced dishes without paying more than $20 on an entree.
Maybe its the name, decor or a combination of the two, but the inside of Leon’s Full Service feels like the inside of a hip 1980s gas station. While many of my friends pin me as someone who only eats foie gras on gold-rimmed plates, I too find merit in good meals that don’t break the bank in an atmosphere that’s very conversational, if you can even say that.

chicken liver croquettes with shallot pickles
and an herb, bacon mayo. $6
While the chicken liver could have been a tinge stronger, the croquettes were fried quite nicely and had a good balance of chicken liver and breadcrumb filling. The shallot pickles were useful palette cleansers.
bacon with peanut butter $5.50
I’m not a bacon fanatic at all. In fact, I usually steer away from dishes that make too much use of it, but the thought of bacon and peanut butter was one worth trying. It’s easy to assume that the kitchen was just playing with sweet and salty, but I didn’t expect the creamy and nutty nature of the peanut butter to smooth out the salt and fat from the bacon. I’d order it again.
grilled duck breast, lentils, golden beets,
dried cranberries, orange duck jus $18
although just a tinge more medium than I like, the duck was tender and seasoned to the point where the natural flavors of the duck could still shine through. The dried cranberries and orange duck jus wasn’t too sweet either and didn’t overpower the duck. Very satisfying.
apple cobbler $4
The least interesting dish of the night. When you say cobbler I’m thinking fruit under a buttery crust, but here the kitchen tried to use oats for a topping. There was nothing more to this dessert than apples cooked with brown sugar. But considering the dish only cost $4, I wasn’t throwing a hissy at the table.
Leon’s Full Service is the kind of the place you could visit a few times week (lunch or dinner) if you’re looking for good food without having to get dressed up. The menu is diverse and creative enough to keep your attention too.
Leon's Full Service on Urbanspoon
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