— TheToothfish

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grass-fed burger, brisket, ground chuck, american cheese, grilled red onions
shredded romaine, tomato, Bad Dog’s 3 signature sauce, homemade tator tots, Drooling Dog ketchup ($9)

Those who know me know that I am not a fan of Bad Dog Taqueria. That review has apparently remained in many minds because every once in a while, I’ll meet someone who will goes, “OH, you wrote the review of that taco place!”

Since that review, I’ve been back once at the beginning of last semester. I figured Bad Dog’s new liquor license was a good excuse to see how the restaurant had changed. In my mind, the tacos were better, but in the way that being chased by one pack of wolves is better than being chased by two. Flavors remained misguided, and so I ditched the re-review I had hoped to write.

Recently, my friend lured me into the place with the promise of a new, special burger on the menu. The meat is a combo of brisket and grass-fed ground chuck (an ode to Holeman and Finch?). Before the burger, there was a grilled guacamole dip. Don’t do it. It’s mushy and lacking in everything you would ever need in a basic recipe, including avocados. The burger arrived. I’ll make this quick: dry and bland. Tragic for a burger with so many toppings and sauces. For starters, a greater percentage of brisket (i.e. fat) would do this burger serious justice. The side of homemade tator tots were straight-up obscure, and when dipped in refrigerator-cold housemade ketchup (with a weird twist), it’s even less pleasant.

At this point, I’ve given up hope. No more Bad Dog for me.

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Reuben with Sauerkraut, Emmenthaler and Russian Dressing on Rye $ 10.95
from Star Provisions, 1198 Howell Mill Rd NW  Atlanta, GA 30318 

WAIT. STOP. Listen to me. LISTEN.

This Reuben from Star Provisions — tomorrow, you will skip your classes, abandon your desk at work, let the patients in the waiting room sit a little longer. This sandwich, this beautiful, beautiful thing. Just look at it. LOOK AT IT. Crusty, buttery bread, smooth corned beef that’s been charred on a flattop, gooey cheese, a bright kraut. The sandwich is a tad surreal, like watching a Justin Bieber movie and then finding yourself standing next to him two days later. As I write this post, I occasionally refer back to the picture and find myself wishing I could live in between the layers of this glorious beast. Strangely enough, I only ordered it because I figured that if I’m going to like Reubens, it’ll be here, at Star Provisions. I was right.

This. Is. Your. Next. Lunch.

brown-butter pear tart, chocolate something with nuts and more chocolate on top. Yes, please. 

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banana cupcake, chocolate-banana medallion in top

Sun In My Belly (2161 College Ave NE  Atlanta, GA 30317) is that neighborhood restaurant everyone loves. This Kirkwood establishment is admired for its breakfast (the scrambled eggs with herbed boursin cheese in the Kirkwood Breakfast is killer). Maybe I’m just out of the loop (probably), but I had no idea SIMB served dinner. My guess is that the move is either new or struggling to attract followers (given the recent Scoutmob deal). My friend, RJ, snagged this $40 Scoutmob deal for two drinks, one appetizer, two salads, two entrees and one dessert.

arugula, walnuts, blue cheese, pears, champagne-vinaigrette

fried green tomatoes, spicy pimento cheese

What I’m about to say may get me banned from entering the land of Kirkwood forever, but Sun In My Belly should stick to eggs. The meal wasn’t bad, but was far more imprecise than I’d like my dinners out to be. A starter of fried green tomatoes came across bland, the pimento cheese almost undetectable. The salad of walnuts. blue cheese and pears is a classic pairing and came together wonderfully, but once on to entrees, it was amateur-hour. I ordered the vegetable plate, and they did nothing with tomato, broccoli rabe, mushrooms and tomatoes that I couldn’t do in my own kitchen with limited time. The short ribs were sorely dry and the accompanying kale was crazy salty and looked like it had been languishing in a pot for far too long, the leaves limp, mushy and lacking in vivacity. For dessert, the banana-cupcake was an improvement, and despite my aversion to cupcakes in general, I’d order it again.

If SIMB is trying its hand at dinner, I wish them the best because a good restaurant makes everybody happy. At the same time, I hope that the kitchen kicks into high-gear and performs on the same level that has earned them city-wide praise for their breakfast. Simple, straightforward and delicious is their game, and that should be the field on which they play at dinner.

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I am, at heart, a man of meat, cheese and bread. If the three are combined into a single being, I’ll probably dig it. I stopped by Crazy Cuban (290 14th St Atlanta, GA 30318) with my sister for a quick lunch. The owner was adamant that customers love the “Classic Cuban” which is ham, pork and cheese with lettuce and tomatoes, but he also made it very clear that this is not how real Cubans prefer their sandwich. The Traditional is more straightforward and has no veggies (“We can’t afford them!” he said).

Above you see the traditional. It’s cheesy and meaty on fantastic, flaky bread. No complaints here, though it is a greasy affair that can be rough on the stomach in the morning.

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bone marrow, olive tapenade, orange citrus

I try to live by the rule that if I don’t like something, it’s because I haven’t had it prepared properly. Or maybe the chef didn’t know what he or she was doing. Anchovies is on my list of current dislikes. Bone marrow is also on there. The first time I had marrow was at Holeman and Finch, and for whatever reason, only the raw parsley kept my gagging reflex at bay (and yet the veal testicles were delightful!). At Leon’s Full Service (owned by the Brickstore people), I figured I might as well give marrow another go.

Thankfully, there was no gagging. But there was also hardly any flavor. Olive tapenade and orange dominated everything. In the meantime, I was sipping on a fantastic montelpuciano barbanera, montepulciano d’abruzzo. For $7 a glass, it’s a great bargain, even if it rings in as the cheapest red on the menu. 

burger | warm chickpea & cherry salad, basil, aged provolone, red wine vinaigrette

The burger was strictly middle-of-the-road, but my oh my those chickpeas. Since when have chickpeas ever tasted this sexy? One doesn’t think to combine cherries with chickpeas for a savory side but when gooey aged provolone and basil start to mesh with everybody, it’s game over. I’ll be figuring out this recipe soon enough because it’s the kind of dish that could turn a carnivore into a vegetarian.

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