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Even after visiting three pizzerias, a rice pudding shop, and a macaroni and cheese restaurant, we had the stomach and energy for dinner. The 30-minute nap on a Crate & Barrel couch was instrumental in our plan to eat more.
 

 

 

 

Joe’s Shanghai is a popular restaurant in Chinatown known for its soup dumplings. After waiting fifteen minutes, the hostess led us to a round table where 9 other people were already eating. You have to love the Chinese for the effort they put into getting every paying customer through the door.
 

 

8 pork soup dumplings for $5
 

 

So what exactly is a soup dumpling? It’s exactly what it sounds like: soup inside of a dumpling. The proper way to eat these dumplings involves gently grabbing the top of the dumplings with chopsticks and holding a spoon under it to catch any soup which might leak out. The dumplings were hot so I nibbled a hole into the side to let the heat escape. Once it was cool enough, I popped the thing into my mouth. BAM. Warm soup gushed out of the dumpling and filled my mouth. There was probably a less sexually suggestive way to describe this moment, but I’m not about to spend the time figuring that out. Overall I enjoyed the dumplings, but I wasn’t a fan of the skin, which I thought was too tough and thick.

Yes, I ordered fried rice and yes, you can call me white-washed for doing so. I don’t care at this point because the chicken fried rice was very good. For starters, the rice wasn’t the usual greasy, brown catastrophe too heavy on the soy sauce and too wimpy on the frying in the wok. The wok did its job this time and the scallions were a sharp way to lighten up the dish.
It’s worth noting that on the night I went, the “white people to Asian people” ratio was probably 1 to 4. Usually this says something about a restaurant’s authenticity, and while Joe’s Shanghai may be a very popular place among tourists, the food is still enjoyable and worth the the trip if you’re in the neighborhood.
Joe’s Shanghai
(212) 233-8888
Chinatown
9 Pell St
New York, NY 10013
www.joeshanghairestaurants.com
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oxtail soup

Today was nasty day to walk in NYC. But being the food fiends my friends and I are, we braced the pelting rain to reach a remote noodle shop in Chinatown. At times we had to put our umbrellas in front of us to stay dry, but every minute or so a gust of wind would invert our umbrellas. By the time we reached the restaurant, our jeans were soaked and our shoes were practically two small swimming pools.

Lam Zhou Handmade Noodle & Dumpling is a hole in the wall. Seats and tables (maybe 15 people could fit in here) cling tightly to the sides of the this narrow restaurant. Straight ahead by the kitchen door a man twirls a large log of dough and occasionally slams it into the marble slab on the table in front of him. A booming WACK echoes through the restaurant. Nobody looks up because they’re busy eating.

steamed pork dumplings

A plate of 12 (maybe more) dumplings costs $3. It’s a wonder how this place makes money. But as for those dumplings, man are they good. The green onions really pull through. There’s a tint of ginger coming from either the dumpling or the sauce. In the end it’s the texture of the skin that’s just soft enough, just sticky enough and just dense enough. Happiness.
A giant bowl of oxtail soup (top of post) is $5 but worth three times that much. While the hand-pulled noodles are fluffy and light, the broth defines depth. This isn’t a soup that can be replicated with one hour and a list of ingredients. It’s a soup that somehow reaches into the soul and puts it at ease.
Chinatown is lined with cramped restaurants just like Lam Zhou. No way they all operate on the same level, but it’s comforting to think that each one has that potential to be unexpectedly memorable and unabashedly cheap.
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some poor chicken is missing his left foot

I stormed into the bathroom, desperate to relieve three glasses of water. Hearing no movement, seeing no people, I went to the closest stall where the door was wide open. BAM. An old Chinese man sitting on the toilet, his long face staring at the wall, trying to relieve more than just water. I was in that stall and then I was out before he could fully turn to face me.

new location, new look, still populated with Asians. All good signs.
The last time I visited Asian Palace, I nearly threw up the rotten food right onto the lazy susan in the middle of the table. Since that fateful encounter, the restaurant closed on Covington and reopened on Summer Avenue, thus signaling a new era in it’s long, storied history from the days of great wedding banquets.
Asian Palace’s new home is a sharp change from it’s previous location. Warehouse concrete stands in place of that nasty old carpet and natural sunlight in place of traditional Chinese lanterns dangling from the ceiling. The food, it seems, also has been recreated and refined back into shape.

fried taro root – delicious

On one Saturday afternoon, I visited Asian Palace with my grandmother for dim sum, fully aware that a key to getting better service is knowing the actual language. The meal started with tough, flavorless meatballs but afterwards quickly picked up pace. Crunchy sesame balls filled with red bean paste, fatty chicken feet with as much flavor as there were bones, savory deep-fried taro root — it was all great and, as my grandmother assured me, all real. No gimmicks. No fried rice floating around. Nobody looking for eggrolls.
By far the best dish was a plate of thin sheets of rice noodles with bits of char siu tucked inside. The noodles — soft, gentle, fresh — were complemented by a lightly flavored (ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil? I dunno) sauce. The dish was so simple yet so addicting. It was heroin on a plate (in drug speak).

egg custard tarts

We ended the meal with these egg custards, a dessert so ridiculously fattening Paula Dean must have been a part of the original recipe. The crust is made from lard so the result is a dense, buttery, rich treat that’s so wrong your arteries actually weep tears.
I left Asian Palace on a full and satisfied stomach, not an easy task when it’s tapas-style Chinese food. Afterwards I took my grandmother to the Chinese grocery store where she talked with the store owner.
It was a good day to be Chinese.
Asian Palace
5266 Summer Ave.
Memphis, TN 38122
(901) 766-0831

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spare-ribs with scallions and black-bean sauce.


 

Before I left for college I reminisced about my grandmother’s cooking. My second-day back at home I had dinner at my grandmother’s house. She cooked the same dishes as the night before I left for Emory. I talked more in-depth about my grandmother’s cooking in a previous post, but I just want to reiterate how I enjoy her food not because of the seasoning or any sauces, but because of the love she puts into her food.

sauteed green beans with beef.

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My palette cringed. My insides screamed, “No more!” My palette writhed in pain. Eating dim sum at Asian Palace in Covington Pike certainly was more difficult than I anticipated. In the beginning I walked in with my head high ready to try anything placed in front of me. I left with a roaring stomach and intense desire to find the nearest restroom clean enough to sustain what I was ready to do. I usually don’t venture out into such a shady part of town for Chinese food but my mom and I were meeting my grandmother, Aunt Mae, and several of her friends. Asian Palace was once the premiere Chinese restaurant in Memphis. No Chinese couple dared to get married and not throw a dinner at Asian Palace. Back then, it was THE place and a hoppin’ one at that.

We walked through the front door passed a giant golden Bhudha statue “raising the roof” with his hands and into a quiet, dimly lit dining room. The room once packed with bustling waiters and demanding customers had lost the bright red aura it exuberated in the old days, and only a few scattered customers gave the waiters something to do. We sat down, asked for a plate that didn’t have food crusted on the edges, and began ordering what would be a slew of disappointing dishes.

Because this was dim sum (traditional Chinese cuisine in which small portions of a variety of foods are served in succession), the food arrived within minutes. Until this point I had forgotten how dangerous it was eating with my grandmother and other old Chinese women. If I weren’t allergic to shellfish, eating with them wouldn’t be so dangerous but as it was, I suddenly found myself playing a game of “Chinese Roulette.” “Here, you like this,” my grandmother said as she put some sort of biscuit on my plate. I opened it up to peak inside and check for shrimp and immediately noticed something resembling shrimp. “Is there shrimp in here? What’s that?” I asked. For a good three minutes, the table debated, in broken English mind you, if shrimp was inside. Aunt Mae said shrimp aren’t in these type of rolls, the waitress, in very bad broken English, said that there was shrimp, then that there wasn’t, then that there was, while my grandmother said there wasn’t. I decided not to eat the controversial biscuit and took a sip of my Sprite, which I knew was safe. In addition to not knowing what was in nearly all of the dishes, I had to overlook the fact that everyone was using their chopsticks instead of the serving spoons to dish out their own portions. The germs! The potential cross-contamination with the shrimp on their plates!

The mysterious “biscuit” wasn’t my only strange encounter. As the lazy-susan circled around the table, a small bowl of greasy, fried items grabbed my attention. “What that?” I asked Aunt Mae’s daughter. “You can’t tell that’s chicken feet?” she snapped. Embracing the foodie within I stabbed a piece and slung it on my plate. Both the daughter and my mother looked horrified. Ignoring their stares, I picked up the foot, and slowly moved forward for a taste. The claws dangled lifelessly in front of me as I nibbled from one side. I cannot fully describe for you what I tasted, but I can confidently say I didn’t like it. And by didn’t like it I mean I gagged. There was a strange, “Chinese-y” taste that didn’t seem normal. I encountered this mysterious flavor a second time when I tried the fried taro root. I almost threw up a third time when I tried a mysterious pork/cabbage wrap. I thought I was bound to upchuck if I kept acting like Andrew Zimmerman, the host of Bizarre Foods, so I waited for the Peking duck and chow fun. The duck was a disappointment as it was overcooked and flavorless. The chow fun with beef though was excellent and tasted of seared goodness that only a wok can give.

Dim sum at Asian Palace was certainly memorable but not in an appetizing way. Once in the car I asked my mom, “So what about that taro root? Does it usually taste that way? Same for the cabbage/pork wrap?” My mother responded, “I’m pretty sure all of that food was ruined, especially the taro root. It tasted spoiled to me.” Mildly pleased that my inexperience wasn’t the reason for my failed attempt at bravery, I reached into my mom’s purse and popped a mint into my mouth.

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