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Chengdu

When people ask me if I miss China, I tell them the truth: I miss Chengdu. Chengdu was a place where every restaurant and side-shop dished out something memorable. The hallmark of Szechuan cuisine is its intense heat, a numbing sensation that makes your forehead glisten with sweat and your eyes swell up with tears. It’s painful and beautiful at the same time, and as the heat builds, so does your desire for more. As I mentioned when I was in Chengdu, the heat is of a tasty variety. It’s sweet or bitter or sour. Dishes are not infernos just for the sake of being fiery infernos.

My friends recently told me that there is a place in Atlanta that comes very close to Chengdu: Gu’s Bistro. Not soon enough we were driving down Buford headed towards the deep recesses of a strip mall.

thin slivers of seared pork belly

We ordered a number of things: Chengdu dumplings, cold noodles, pork belly, fish and a beef dish. While the dumplings and the noodles were not ideal, the pork belly, fish and beef were as close to Chengdu as I’m going to get. With every bite my nose was running more and more. In so many words, the back of my throat was alive. The crispy pork belly, the signature red hue from peppercorns that runs deep in every Chengdu broth, the whole chilies that look like garnishes but act like dangerous bodyguards —  the food of Chengdu and at Gu’s Bistro is not for the faint of spice or heat. Proceed with caution, but understand that should you find pleasure in pain, another world awaits you.

a broth that takes on the color of red peppercorns and chili flakes. Below the surface, white, flaky fish

Gu’s Bistro
(770) 451-8118
Doraville
5750-A Buford Hwy
Doraville, GA 30340

Gu's Bistro on Urbanspoon

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an alley in Chengdu. lunch at every corner.

For the six weeks I stayed in Beijing, I thought it was me. I wasn’t familiar with the spices. I wasn’t use to the preparations. That’s why I didn’t find Chinese food in Beijing that captivating. Then I went to Chengdu for a few days. Yeah, it wasn’t me.

Chengdu is the capital city of Sichuan southwest of Beijing. Chengdu is known for being over-the-top spicy, but what’s important to understand is that Chengdu’s spicy if flavor-spicy. Whereas Indian or Mexican food can burn without reward, there is another dimension behind Chengdu’s hot peppercorns or fire-y chili oil. It doesn’t burn just to burn. It’s tasty, numbing and addicting.

Also, Chengdu’s street food is safe unlike in Beijing where food was often cooked in trashcans. Beijing’s street food scene is truly terrifying (rat meat passed off as beef skewers?!). In Chengdu, even the random places were delicious.

Here are some memorable dishes I had in Chengdu.

does that look spicy?


8-ingredient tea. characteristically sweet. not bitter.


pig’s brains for the hotpot. not much flavor. texture like foie gras.


the origin of wontons! actually, they’re called “húndùn”

 

street food. thin bread with sesame seeds and red pepper.hot!

 

street food. duck neck. tastes like duck but not much meat.


 

simple tender chicken. chicken here tastes different than US chicken. tastes more pure.


spicy fish cooked with roasted red peppers. tender and delicious. spicy, of course.

my favorite. tian shui mian (甜水面). It’s a little sweet with a lot of numming. Thick noodles give a good pull.

 

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