— TheToothfish

Hog & Hominy Hoedown

Ever since last summer, I’ve had a very deep appreciation for the people over at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen. A fantastical bed of polenta, crispy pork rinds, an airy pecorino cheese souffle amid a pool of neck bone gravy, a delicate mascarpone cheesecake — Andrew Michael not only demonstrates superb execution but they are not afraid to cook outside the conventional boundaries this city often confines itself to. Hog & Hominy is their latest work, and it’s located across the street.

Offering small plates and pizzas, H&H hits a very different vibe than the mothership. The music is loud, and the crowd is young but the food, nevertheless, breathes that familiar daring, creative spirit. In the small plate realm, spicy buffalo pork tails, crispy sweetbreads, a brandade of smoked catfish (a spread over toast) and fries covered in neckbone gravy and cheese curd (poutine) are a delight. All hit the $8-$12 range.

The pizzas, while less exciting, still make for a fine meal. The ‘Shrooms pizza is a celebration of fungus, another with arugula pesto, benton bacon and ricotto salata is as bright and spicy as a Columbian woman and another with pork belly, egg and fontina hits the comfort zone immediately.

For dessert, I remember a peanut butter pie, an oreo cake with chocolate mousse and a parmesan gelato. Also good.

Check Hog & Hominy out. They’re open late (sometimes until 2 a.m.). Good for them and good for the folks at Andrew Michael. Here is a restaurant family/group that this city needs.