Review Update: I’m A Believer
antico’s san gennaro
Time makes the heart grow fonder.
My initial review of Antico was an obscure mix of praise (5 Stars) with a quick backhand slap (I said I was disappointed). Since my first meal at Antico, I’ve explored New York City in search of the revelation I was seeking. What I discovered was a different kind of revelation. While native New Yorkers might shank me for what I’m about to say, they should know that I, in fact, prefer the rib. Onward.
Antico is as good as Grimaldi’s, better than Lombardi’s, and slightly inferior to Motorino’s.
I’ve been to Antico’s five times in the last two years. The pies are deliciously consistent, and the bustling dining room/kitchen is anything but quiet. The San Gennaro is Antico’s superior pie, a beautiful contrasting bite of sweet red peppers, salty salsiccia and creamy bufala. The Lasagna is another good choice that’s nothing like the TV Dinner lasagna’s you’ve eaten (we all have). And as far as classic goes, the Margherita is a solid choice, but perhaps lacking the same energy the previously mentioned pies bring.
Antico’s pizzas are not perfect. The crust is surprisingly soggy, sometimes overbearingly so, and can be more burnt than necessary. But as the Italians might say — or at least the stereotypical ones you see on TV —, you can “forget about it” because bottom line these pies are wonderful.