— TheToothfish

Bordeaux is one of the most important wine regions in the world, exporting more than half of the most valued wines in the world. Its prominence is rooted in its soil/climate, which is heavily dictated by the Atlantic Ocean which acts as a barrier to extreme weather. The weather here is temperate and cool.

History of Bordeaux

The vine was introduced to the Bordeaux region by the Romans, probably in the mid-1st century (50 A.D), to provide wine for local consumption.

12th Century: Popularity of Bordeaux wines in England increased dramatically following the marriage of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine. The marriage made the province of Aquitaine, English territory, and thenceforth the majority of Bordeaux was exported. At this time, Graves was the principal wine region of Bordeaux, and the principal style was clairet. This accounts for the ubiquity of claret in England.

1337-1453: The export of Bordeaux was interrupted by the outbreak of The Hundred Years’ War between France and England in 1337. By the end of the conflict in 1453 France had repossessed the province, thus taking control of wine production in the region.

17th Century: Dutch traders drained the swampy ground of the Médoc in order that it could be planted with vines, and this gradually surpassed Graves as the most prestigious region of Bordeaux. Malbec was dominant grape here, until the early 19th century, when it was replaced by Cabernet Sauvignon.

1855: the châteaux of Bordeaux were classified

1875-1892: almost all Bordeaux vineyards were ruined by Phylloxera infestations. The region’s wine industry was rescued by grafting native vines on to pest-resistant American rootstock and all Bordeaux vines that survive to this day are a product of this action.

Soil & Surface Area

The geological foundation of the region is limestone, leading to a soil structure that is heavy in calcium. The Gironde estuary dominates the regions along with its tributaries, the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers, and together irrigate the land and provide an Atlantic Climate, also known as an oceanic climate, for the region.

120,000 Hectares (1 hectare = 10,000 square meters)

Main Grape Varietals

Merlot – Roasted aromas, and flavors reminiscent of red fruit (such as plums) and figs after ageing in bottle for several years. Also known as clot.

Cabernet Sauvignon – A traditional late-ripening local variety. The gravely soil of the Left Bank provides the necessary warmth for optimum ripening. This grape variety contributes structure to the wines as well as hearty tannins and a flavor profile including liquorice, black fruit (such as blackcurrant), and elegant aromas of forest floor with age. Also known as bouche, sauvignon rouge, vidure.

Cabernet Franc – Cabernet Franc ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon. It is an excellent complementary grape variety that rarely makes up the majority of the final blend. It adds freshness, finesse, and aromatic complexity as well as hints of raspberry and violet. Also known as bouchet in Pomerol & St. Emilion

ALSO: Petit Verdot, Malbec & Carmenere

Sauvignon Blanc – Provides the wines with the necessary acidity as well as minerality, aromatic freshness, and varietal aromas, such as citrus, boxwood, and fig leaves.

Semillon – Main grape variety for semi-sweet and sweet white wines and is almost always a component of dry white wines as well. It contributes roundness, richness, and apricot and honey aromas.

Muscadelle – Plays a secondary role in the blend for both dry and sweet white wines (generally no more than 10%), is a fragile but very interesting variety with musky floral overtones.

Explain Classification System of 1855

When Emperor Napoleon III requested a classification system for France’s best Bordeaux wines which were to be on display for visitors from around the world. Brokers from the wine industry ranked the wines according to a château’s reputation and trading price, which at that time was directly related to quality.

The wines were ranked in importance from first to fifth growths (crus). All of the red wines that made it on the list came from the Médoc region except for one: Château Haut-Brion from Graves.

1973: Château Mouton Rothschild is elevated from a second growth to a first growth vineyard

Best Vintages of Bordeaux1961, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005

dis stuff is ‘spensive

First Growths

Château Lafite Rothschild (Pauillac)
Château Latour (Pauillac)
Château Margaux (Margaux)
Château Haut-Brion (Pessac, Graves)
Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac)

For Second, Third, Fourth and Fifth Growths, click here.

Classifications for St. Emilion (c. 1955, updated every 10 years)

Premiers grands crus classés A

Chateau Angelos
Chateau Pavie
Chateau Ausone
Chateau Cheval Blanc 

For all other growths, click here.

For Classification of-Leognan (c. 1959), click here.

The 1855 Classification of Sauternes & Barsac -> Premier Cru Superieur: Chateau d’Yquem. For all others, click here.

The Story of Pomerol

Roughly 780 hectures, Pomerol is the smallest wine producing region in France. Petrus and Le Pin are the top wines in the region but oddly enough no wines in Pomerol are classified, unlike Bordeaux, St. Emilion and even Satuernes & Barsac. Pomerol was granted its AOC status in 1936 as part of the first wave of AOC 

While it is now one of the most prestigious of the Bordeaux AOCs, this situation is relatively recent, dating to the second half of the twentieth century, which is often given as one of the reasons why Pomerol is not included in any of the Bordeaux classifications

Jean-Pierre Moueix and his family are widely credited with putting Pomerol “on the international map”.[3] Born in the central French department of Corrèze, Moueix moved to the Bordeaux region with his family and first attempted to open up a négocianthouse in the city of Bordeaux itself. However, he found that market heavily saturated, so he moved across the river to the Libournais region and opened up a négociant house in the city of Libourne in 1937. In 1945, Moueix acquired exclusive selling rights to Château Pétrus.

The 1982 vintage was a watershed moment for Moueix and Pomerol. Aided by a strong US dollar and the glowing reviews of American wine critic Robert M. Parker, Jr., the region gained a strong foothold in the American market and helped propel estates like Pétrus to unprecedented prices on the auction circuit.

The above content has been reproduced from various websites.

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History: Wine in the Loire Valley date back to the 5th century but did not become popular until the Dutch discovered them in the 11th century. Wines of Poitou and Anjou were particularly popular in England until Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry II, during which England was given control of Bordeaux.

The geography of Loire varies greatly, in the east a climate dictated by the Atlantic and in the west a climate dictated by cool-continental. Vines occupy slops facing the sun and the entire region is approx. 50,000 HA (for reference, that’s half the size of Bordeaux).

While wines from Loire vary greatly, one can generally expect freshness, finesse and a natural acidity. Top grape varietals are Chenin/Chenin Blanc, which is also grown in South Africa (called Steen), California and South America and Cabernet Franc (both grown in mid-Loire). Sauvignon blanc is grown predominately in the east (Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume). Melon de Bourgogn (muscadet) is grown in the west.

One of the most notable winemakers in the region, if not the country, is Nicolas Joly, owner of Coulee de Serrant, a clos in Savennieres. This 7-ha vinyard is famous for its characteristic white wines and for its progressive stance on biodynamic cultivation. Joly is perhaps one of the leading winemakers in this field.

The Wines of Pays de Nantes
Credit: WinePages.com

This coastal area, the “Pays de Nantes” is the home of Muscadet. The Melon de Bourgogne grape makes a “neutral” wine. In cool years it can be rather tart. The better Muscadets come from Sèvre-et-Maine to the east of the city of Nantes. When choosing a Muscadet, perhaps the most important thing to look out for on the label is the term “Sur Lie.” This means that the wine has been aged on its “lees,” the mix of yeast cells and grape fragments that remains after fermentation. Sur Lie wines are bottled directly off the lees without filtration and have added fruitiness, a nutty quality and sometimes a little hint of sparkle on the tongue.

The Wines of Anjou and Saumur
Credit: Bottles Notes

Trying to put your finger on the typical Anjou-Saumur variety is a bit like trying to identify France’s signature cheese. Sweet and dry, red and white, sparkling and Rosé, Anjou produces an astounding variety of wines. Almost half of production is still Rosé, although that number is on the decline. Since Rosé is usually a blend of lesser grapes, the popularity of the wine hasn’t made any one grape variety famous.

Instead, Anjou-Saumur is known for its Chenin Blanc and its Cabernet Franc. The Chenin Blanc grape is incredibly versatile. Depending on weather conditions, it can be used to create any type of wine – dry, sweet, or sparkling. Here, however, Chenin Blanc is best known as the grape of Saumur’s famed sparkling wines. Indeed, outside of Champagne, Saumur is France’s most important sparkling wine region.

In some of the best regions of Savennières, the Chenin Blanc achieves perfection. Chenin Blanc is naturally tart and high in acid, which can make it too bitter for dry wines. In Savennières, winemakers leave the grape on the vine all the way into November, combing the vines every few days and picking only the ripest grapes. This process, known as tries, tempts fate to send an early rain and takes an incredible amount of labor, but it can produce balanced sweet wines that far outstrip anything else Chenin Blanc has to offer.

It is in Saumur-Champigny that winemakers cultivate the Loire’s best Cabernet Franc. The shale and gravel in the soil in the soil here provide perfect conditions for the Loire’s specialty red grape. The result is a very dry, full-bodied wine with a deep color, heavy tannins and long life. Many believe this to be the Loire’s finest red wine.

The Wines of Touraine
Credit:
Bottle Notes

Some wine regions are defined by a single excellent excellent and well-known variety. Touraine, on the other hand, is a microcosm of the Loire itself. It is known not for any one grape or wine, but rather for its impressive variety. All four types of wine are made here – white, red, rosé, and sparkling, and the whites occupy the full spectrum of dry, off-dry and sweet.

The Vouvray subregion the center of Touraine represents to many the pinnacle of Chenin Blanc. The wine produced here is known for its crisp and ripe acidity, its round mouthfeel, and its fragrant aromas of ripe pear. Vouvray can be dry and crisp, semi-sweet, fully sweet and even sparkling. The semi-sweet wine is known as “demi-sec,” or half dry. A sweet Vouvray will be labeled Vovray Moelleux, while a sparkling bottle is known as Vouvray Mousseux.

Chinon and Bourgeuil, located in the southwest of Touraine, have a very different distinction. Often associated with the best red wines the Loire has to offer, Chinon and Bourgeuil specialize in Cabernet Franc. Although Cabernet Sauvignon is also allowed, these regions help explain why the Loire is known for its specialization in Cabernet Franc. The reds here are light, soft, pleasant, and easy to like.

The Wines of Central Loire
Credit:
Bottle Notes 

This region is not as densely planted as the others in the Loire, and the vineyards are scattered widely across the countryside. Sauvignon Blanc is the area’s variety of choice, and its striking aroma is arresting. Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are the region’s best-known Sauvignon Blancs, but some of the lesser-known appellations produce excellent wines as well. A bit of Pinot Noir is grown as well, but the region is known for its Sauvignon Blanc and its Pinot cannot compare to a good Burgundy.

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Riesling, anyone? On the north-eastern tip of France at German’s doorstep is Alsace. Winemaking dates back to the 4th century and through the ages had both Roman and German influences. By the middle ages, wines from Alsace were highly prized but everything changed during the 30 Years War (1618-1648).

The region did not recover from the devastation until after WWI. After 1945, the government set stricter rules in an effort to bolster quality and reputation. In 1962, Alsace became an appellation and in 1975, the region received its grand cru appellations. The grand cru appellations, themselves, are rather controversial. Many believed that too many villages earned the distinction.

Geography

While located in the north, Alsace is shielded by the Vosges mountains on the left and buffered by the Rhine River on the right. Those mountains limit rainfall and exposure to harsh winds but maximize exposure to sun. The terroir is varied, since Alsace sits on a fault line. Granite, limestone, schist, and sandstone are common. The area, in total, equals 15,000 hectares.

Vendage Tardives - many wines from Alsace are “vendage tardive,” signaling that harvesters picked the grapes in late-harvest. This allows the grapes to increase their sugar content.

Selection de Grains Nobles – When grapes are picked even later than late-harvest (vendage tardives), they fall into this category (the highest category/indication of quality). These grapes are infected with noble rot (botryis), a fungus which absorbs the water in the grapes and makes even sweeter wine. Sweeter wine also means a higher alcohol content.

Acceptable Grapes – Alsace uses the following grapes…

  • Riesling (21%)
  • Gewurtraminer (18%)
  • Pinot Gris (15%
  • Others: Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Sylvaner, Pinot Noir, Kleiner de Heiligenstein
Random Grand Cru Facts
  • 51 Grand Cru Sites producing only wines from Riesling, Gewurtraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat
  • Wine marked “Cremant d’Alsace” is sparkling wine
  • The latest addition to grand cru (51) = Kaefferkopf in 2006/2007, located in Ammerschwihr south of Ribeauville
  • Northern Grand Cru Villages (+ brand)
    • Marlenheim (Steinklotz)
    • Molsheim (Bruderhal)
    • Obernai
  • Southern Grand Cru Villages (+ brand)
    • Barr (Kirchberg)
    • Ribeauville (Geisberg, Kirchberg, Osterberg)
  • Smallest Grand Cru = Kanzlerberg (3.2 ha) located in Bergheim
  • Largest Grand Cru = Schlossberg (Kientzheim/Kayersberg) 80.3 ha

The most famous grand cru wine from Alsace is Clos Ste. (Rosacker Vineyard). Just south of Ribeauville, Clos Ste. sits on 26 hectares of limestone soil and grows Rieseling and Gewurtraminer.

Top growers include…

  • Trimbaca
  • Mader
  • Mittnacht-Klack
  • Sipp-Mc
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Methode Champenoise: How to Make Champagne

The champagne appellation is governed by very strict rules. Farmers are only allowed to yield 89-98 pounds per acre of grapes. The reason being is that this forces farmers to stress their vines. When vines have to fight for nutrients, water, sunlights etc., they produce fewer grapes. Fewer grapes means a greater concentration of sugar/quality than those grapes from a vine that yielded dozens more.

Grapes must be hand-harvested since machines tend to prematurely crush the grapes.

After the grapes are pressed and skins/stems/leaves (called the must) are left in contact with the juices for 1-3 days. The skins/leaves are then removed and at this point, the grape juice has undergone malolactic fermentation, which is the process by which malic acid (naturally present in the must) is converted into lactic acid, which contributes a rounder fuller mouthfeel to the juice.

At this point, some juices are left to age to allow flavors/natural sugars to increase. After the aging process comes the Assemblage Process. Wine labels (Dom Perignon, Krug, Ruinart) strive to produce bottles that are consistent with their brand. In order to achieve this, many wine must be combined with juices/grapes from previous years. These are called non-vintage champagnes. Wines that use grapes from one single year are vintage champagnes (expensive!).

I mentioned earlier that the best bottles of champange are known as “Cuvees Prestige.” Here are the main labels in Champagne…

  • Louis Roederer’s Cristal
  • Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle
  • Moët & Chandon’s Dom Pérignon
  • Duval-Leroy’s Cuvée Femme
  • Pol Roger’s Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
  • Tattinger
  • Perrier Jouet’s ‘La Belle Epoque’
  • William Duetz
  • Bollinger
  • Ruinart
  • Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin

Following the blending, the champagne is bottled and wine, yeast and sugar is added to the mixture before capping the bottle. During this bottle fermentation, active yeast feeds on the sugar to impart flavor to the champagne. This process happens over a long period of time in the chalky cellars underground. These caverns are very cold and stable, temperature wise. The longer these bottles are allowed to ferment, the higher-quality the champagne (which can be seen by the size of the CO2 bubbles – finer/smaller bubbles means higher-quality champagne).

When it’s time to remove the yeast, the bottle via machine is slowly tipped back and forth (riddling) until the dead yeast is at the top of the bottle. To remove the yeast, the neck is frozen and when the cap is removed, the yeast shoots out (disorgement).

Here comes another key step: the dosage. At this point, winemakers decide just how sweet they want their champagne to be. By adding a sugar syrup, they determine that. Those sweetness levels are as follows..

  • Extra-Brut = no dosage, 2g per liter of champagne
  • Brut = 15g per liter
  • Sec = 17-35g per liter
  • Demi-Sec (dessert wine) = 35-50g per liter
  • Doux = 50+g per liter

As one final note, bottles of champagne can come in the following sizes…

Quarter  18.75 cl 1/4
Half-Bottle 37.5 cl 1/2
Bottle 75 cl 1
Magnum 1.5 l 2
Jeroboam 3 l 4
Rehoboam 4.5 l 6
Methuselah 6 l 8
Salmanazar 9 l 12
Balthazar 12 l 16
Nebuchadnezzar 15 l 20

Here’s a way to remember the main bottle sizes, according to this one website:

A useful mnemonic for these big bottle sizes is: MJudy Really Makes Splendid Belching Noises

AND that is champagne. I’m pretty sure there’s some section/chapter I’m overlooking so I’ll probably fail my quiz but oh well.

NEXT UP: Alsace.

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You wouldn’t know by looking at this blog that I have a serious thing for wine. Wine is beautiful and makes everything better. In the event you have a nasty bottle on your hand, keep drinking and eventually it’ll taste fine.

I don’t think I’ve mentioned that I’m currently spending some time at a local wine shop. The owner of the store is a pro-sommelier, and I’m currently taking a crash course on everything about wine. I am studying regions and grapes, villages and wine-making techniques. I’m learning about soil and memorizing maps. It’s a lot of information, and I am to be quizzed on it weekly.

With that in mind, I figured I’d write down what I’m learning in a post as a way of helping me learn this material. Plus, some of you may find it interesting. Let us start  in Champagne

A Brief History of Champagne

Champagne is a celebratory drink often consumed at special occasions, but as someone has said before, “Champagne IS the occasion.”

Champagne is located the farthest north of any wine region in France and the region’s climate is described as  ”continental cool.” Why true champagne only comes out of Champagne can be explained by going back to the Romans who once controlled the region (then called Gaul). The Romans constructed various buildings across the region, and when those buildings broke down, the materials sunk into the soil. Soil in Champagne is chalky and sandy, qualities that are important for drainage, high pH levels and storing heat. Heat is a key component in ripening grapes (which, in turn, increases sugar and lowers acidity levels). The color of the chalky soil also, to varying degrees, reflects sunlight back up to the vine for additional heat (for photosynthesis).

The Romans also built extensive cellars (made of chalk) throughout champagne, and as I’ll explain later, these are essential for the fermentation process of champagne. Before the fermentation process, though, you should know that winegrowers primarily plant three grapes in the region: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Chardonnay accounts for the least amount of volume (25%) but is often the predominant grape used in the best champages (cuvees de prestige). A wine made of 100% chardonnay is called “Blanc de Blanc.”  Pinor Noir (25%) and Pinot Meunier (35%+) are the remaining two grapes.

If you’re wondering how something as clear/white as champagne can be made from a grape often associated with red wine, know that all grape juice is clear. Wine gets it color from the skin of the grape, which also imparts tannins (the bitter stuff). The longer skins are left in contact with the barrel of juice, the more red and tannic it becomes.

Champagne is the only region in France to have one, single appellation, which is another way of saying where grapes grow. While only wines out of champagne can be called champagne (the rest being Sparkling Wine), not ALL regions of Champagne grows grapes.

As shown by this map, champagne can be divided into three states (Aisne, Marne and Aube). Most of the grapes are grown in Marne, which can be divided into three regions: the mountain of Marne, the valley of the Marne and the Cote de Blancs. Within this appellation, certain villages are known for growing the best grapes (called Grand Cru Villages). When it comes to selling their grapes, these villages receive 100% of the price set by somebody. Lesser villages recieve 80-90%.

There are 17 Grand Cru  Villages in total.

  1. Sillery
  2. Beaumont
  3. Mailly
  4. Verzenay
  5. Louvois
  6. Ambonnay
  7. Bouzy
  8. Tour-Sur-Marne
  9. Cramant
  10. Avize
  11. Ay
  12. Chouilly
  13. Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger
  14. Oger
  15. Oiry
  16. Verzy
  17. Puisieulx

Not everyone in Champagne just grows grapes and makes wine. There are various intermediaries and positions. They are as follows…

  • Negociant-Manipulant (N.M) – harvests/buy grapes, must or base wine process in own cellar
  • Recoltant-Maniupulant (R.M) – makes own champagne in own cellars from own grapes
  • Recoltant-Cooperatur (R.C.) – member of a co-op, sells wine made by co-op to customers
  • Cooperative de Manipulation (C.M) – makes & matures champagne in own cellars from grapes of members
  • Societe de Recoltants (S.R) – org. of independent wine makers who make and bottle champagne from member’s harvests
  • Negociant Distributeur (N.D) – merchant/company who buys champagne which has already been bottled, provides label
  • Recoltant (R) – winegrower allows grapes made into wine by N.M. and receives champagne back in bottles
  • Marque Auxiliaire (M.A) – re-sells own brand as shown on label

In Champagne Part II, we’ll discuss the process by which champagne is made: Méthode Champenoise.

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